Suits

Fit

The fit is slim, slimmer than most US retail brands including Polo Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers, Banana Republic, and J. Crew. It is on par with Tom Ford, Ralph Lauren Black Label, Brooks Brothers Black Fleece, H&M and Zara.

The sizes do not correspond exactly with our shirts; their rough equivalents are listed below. Measurements are in inches.

The most important measurement is the shoulder as we can't modify that significantly, unlike all other measurements. So it's best if you can measure a jacket that fits you well from shoulder seam to shoulder seam and compare with the below measurement chart.

  34R 36R 38R 39R 40R 42R 44R46R
Shirt size 14.5 15 15.75   16.5      
Polo size S M L   XL XXL    
Shoulder 16.5 17 17.25 17.75 18.25 18.75 19 19.25
Chest 18.5 19 19.5 20.25 20.5 21 21.5 22
Waist 16.75 17.5 18.25 18.75 20 20.75 21.5 22
Length 29 29.5 29.75 30 30.75 31 31.5 32
Sleeve 24 24.25 24.5 24.75 24.75 25 25.25 25.5

Trousers

Unlike most brands, we don't do vanity sizing. Many customers find it necessary to order one size larger than what they wear in other brands. Measure a pair of trousers that fit you well across the waistband. A 34" waistband will take size 34 trousers.

The RTW trousers are slightly slimmer.

  28 30 32 34 36 3840
Waist 28 30 32 34 36 38 40
Front rise 10 10.25 10.25 10.5 10.5 10.75 11
Back rise 16.5 16.75 17 17.5 18 18.5 18.75
Thigh 11 11.5 12 12.5 12.75 13 13.25
Knee 8.75 9 9.25 9.5 9.75 10 10.25
Cuff 7.5 7.5 7.75 8 8 8 8.25

Jacket features


Full canvas construction. The most important aspect of the jacket. We use a horsehair canvas interlining in the chest and lapels. The canvas is hand-sewn so that it floats separately from the fabric and the lining, resulting in better drape, lighter weight, and allows the canvas to conform to your body.

Cheaper suits use a fused construction which glues the layers together, making the jacket stiff, heavy, and less breathable. Typically, due to the complexity and amount of handwork required, only suits that retail for more than $2000 will have full canvas construction.

Basted lapels. By attaching the canvas to the lapel with a degree of tension, the lapel rolls naturally, giving a three-dimensional appearance to the front of the jacket. This can only be achieved by hand-sewing.

Hand-set collar. Allows the felt to be evenly distributed, for a better fit.

Hand-sewn pick-stitching. On lapels, shoulders, and throughout.

Handmade buttonholes. Including working sleeve buttons.

Horn buttons. Attached with a crow's foot stitch, which can only be made by hand.

Flower loop. Attached by hand to the back of the left lapel, this keeps flowers worn in the lapel secure.

Trouser features


Split waistband. Allows the waistband to adjust comfortably as your waistline fluctuates throughout the day.

Pleated curtained waistband. Protects the internal structure of the trousers, and allows the pockets to lay flat. Pleats give the waistband room to adjust.

Clean belt loops. Attached with a slip stitch so that no stitching is visible on the outside of the belt loops.

Hidden pocket located below the waistband. There is an additional coin pocket in the more traditional location inside the right front pocket.

Made-to-measure

We can make custom suits based on your measurements. The price is the same as the ready-to-wear suits and will take about three weeks.

Unlike other custom tailors, we prefer to first send you one of our ready-to-wear suits for you to try on, and then you can note measurement modifications based on that (e.g. +1" waist, -0.5" sleeve, etc.). This allows us to have a very good chance of making your first suit fit perfectly. Whereas the more common method of simply submitting a set of measurements typically results in ill-fitting, unwearable suits for the first one or two iterations, and is a waste of your time and money.

To get started, take a look at the above measurements and order the trial suit in the size that will fit you best. If it just happens to be perfect, then keep the suit. If not, return it and we'll make you a new suit with your desired modifications.

When you receive the suit, send us photos and we'll work out what measurements need to be changed. No expertise required.

If you wish to skip the trial suit and have the custom suit made directly, we don't recommend it but can do so.

Options

Options form. You can only choose between these options, which are extensive.

Fabrics

Some fabrics are cataloged on the website. The following swatch books have not been added to the website yet:

Classic Four Seasons 1
Classic Four Seasons 2
Classic Four Seasons 3
Ariston Four Seasons 1
Ariston Four Seasons 2
Loro Piana & Zegna
Jacketing & Trousers
Gladson Luxury 4
Gladson Luxury 5
Gladson Luxury 6

Spring/Summer 2014

Italian Spring/Summer 1
Italian Spring/Summer 2
Classic Cotton Linen
Loro Piana, Zegna Spring/Summer
Scabal Spring/Summer
VBC Lightweight Solids
VBC Lightweight Luxury
Gladson Spring/Summer Luxury 1
Gladson Spring/Summer Luxury 2

Fall/Winter

Classic Fall/Winter 1
Classic Fall/Winter 2
Italian Fall/Winter 1
Italian Fall/Winter 2
Gladson Fall/Winter
VBC Fall/Winter

Spring/Summer 2013 - Most are sold out

Gladson Cotton Linen
Zegna Spring/Summer
Spring/Summer 1
Spring/Summer 2
Spring/Summer 3
Spring/Summer 4

Spring 2013 Lookbook

We can mail you swatches when you order the trial suit. You can return the swatches together with the trial suit.

Pricing

Most conservative fabrics are in the A price range, including the ready-to-wear charcoal suit. Name brand mills such as VBC, Gladson, Ariston, Loro Piana, Zegna  are in price range C. A few luxury fabrics are E and above.

Prices increased on Oct 1 2013 by about $45 for a suit. For reference, see old prices.

Fabric 2pc suit 3pc suit Jacket Trousers Vest
CMT $720 $825 $565 $295 $225
A $795 $935 $610 $255 $170
B $830 $975 $630 $275 $180
C $870 $1025 $660 $300 $190
D $920 $1085 $695 $330 $205
E $985 $1160 $740 $370 $225
F $1045 $1235 $785 $405 $245
G $1110 $1310 $825 $445 $260
H $1175 $1385 $870 $480 $280
I $1235 $1460 $915 $520 $300
J $1300 $1540 $955 $555 $320
Options  
Tuxedo $45
Jacket half lined $20
Jacket unstructured –$70